We went to the hot springs at Panamik in the morning, and bawa managed to lose the room keys somewhere! We were locked out of the room. We were too scared to tell the imperious and grumpy hotel manager and got in and out of the room through the window. 
Hear that cretin laughing at me
The day outside was looking most intimidating...heavy cloud cover
But the leaden gray sky added its own beauty to the already austere landscape
Today we would explore a road that few manage to do - the Agham-Shyok road
We would not be going back up Khardung la, but be following the Shyok river upstream
The road became empty after Khalsar. 
Not many people take this road - because it can be dangerous and prone to flash floods and landslides
But it had an unearthly beauty
The Shyok is known as 'River of death' due to the great destruction caused by flash floods
The colours of the mountains become even more different in the overcast sky
Picture
The road Tarmac sometimes vanishes...
and sometimes is perfect...
And sometimes you have to ride on the riverbed itself!
It really makes you stop and think
We are so small and insignificant in all this magnificence
It suddenly rained after we left the river at Shyok village. within seconds we were wet and lost our body heat in the windchill! We were shivering and miserable and soon couldnt think straight. Luckily we were near Durbuk and took refuge in a dhaba. Even in the dhaba we were shivering and miserable. Luckily I was able to make a call and get refuge in a nearby Army guest house...else it would have been a really sticky situation. 
Brrrrr!